My first Asian tour earlier this year was hard work at times, great fun some of the time, frustrating other times but, overall, fascinating and wonderful. My days were usually spent wandering through some of the poorest communities I have ever seen while, at night, I was normally able to relax in the comfort of a nice enough hotel room, with all the modern conveniences. Many stark contrasts. Yovos like me don't stand out in a crowd quite as much as in Africa, but that part is still a factor in getting work accomplished.
Asians, in general, don't have any clearer picture of life in North America or the issues that make our situations what they are than most of our African friends either. And, perhaps, theirs is even more mixed up because of their greater access to popular American exports such as television and cinema. (I must have been called Kenny Rogers a thousand times; I finally had to sing to prove otherwise.)
At first glance, the areas of India, Thailand and the Philippines which I got to know are better "developed" than most areas in and around Togo but every once in a while the contrary proved true. As an example, in the Philippines, where massive aid has flowed in from the West for nearly 50 years since the end of WWII, people who cannot afford, or do not have access to, gas (or electric) heat for cooking are still using three rocks in a circle and, in the process, cutting down and burning up every damn tree that is left. Happy to report, a few of them now know a little more about more appropriate, environmentally more sound, and safer stoves. If Barry or Sam or any one of you experts in that field would have been with me, they would now know even more, but you weren't. Reinventing the wheel where it shouldn't be necessary.
As far as the use of animal power for agricultural, transport and other purposes, the Asians are way ahead of West Africans in terms of technology and know-how, the trouble being that it is still just as unaffordable for most small family farmers one place as it is another. Poverty sucks all over.
One last comparison: it seems absolutely true that AIDS in Asia over the next decade or so will outdo everything that has happened to this point. I am horrified to say this but I believe an entire generation of young Asian men and women, no matter their sexual orientation, are severely at risk. In Thailand, at least the government is past the denial stage and now taking steps to try to recover. In India, traditions are not going to change easily in this second most populated nation on the planet. And in the Philippines, well, it's good I am not pro-violence for I would surely favor the public execution of every Catholic prelate there, not to mention their mentors in Rome. In my opinion, they are guilty of murder.
The big excitement of the whole 6 month adventure was the eruption in February of Mayon volcano in the Philippines, while I was working less than 20 miles away. The eruption itself was magnificent beyond my ability to describe it. The nightly ritual of watching rivers of red hot lava flow down the crater's side was truly hypnotizing. (I was relieved one day during the on-going chaos to hear a local radio commentator refer to the activity as "orgasmic eruptions" -- relieved because I wasn't alone in my thoughts.)
The event also presented me with my first real exposure to large numbers of disaster victims. Some 50,000 people were forced to evacuate to centers outside the danger zone, taking them away from their land and homes for several months. And, of course, the government's ability to assist in the aftermath was meager, and resources few. The entire episode was a personal challenge and an eye-opening experience.
Other matters on my mind: The mind boggles at the new administration's (Clinton et al.) apparent inability to get any kind of grip on international matters. Other than lucking into the Israel-PLO deal, a quick review of the past 9 months provides a frightening tale of ineptitude and bungling. Guard those warheads closely, everywhere.
Here is an item I saw this week in a paper called "Times of the Heartland", a gay publication out of Omaha. Peace Corps is being sued by a gay, male volunteer in Cape Verde because he was encouraged to "come out" during pre-service cross-cultural training in order to enhance the sessions. Then several months later he was terminated for his behavior. He was accused of allowing other male volunteers to stay at his residence overnight. Hey, don't ask, don't tell; and if asked, tell them to go to hell.
If things go as currently planned, I'll be out of retirement temporarily in November, tromping around the Indian state of West Bengal, much of the time in Calcutta. I am looking forward to it immensely. I should be here again in December plotting the next move. For you who don't already know, my new address (and phone) is listed here somewhere. It's a quaint, little house in the same old KC neighborhood, and it will do for now. I would really love to have visitors though, visitors like you. Think of the fun we could have.
Finally, it has been a goal of mine for years to organize a reunion built around all the PCVs from Togo and Benin who, over the last 20+ years, served in the Animal Traction program. (Plus friends, of course.) Now that the final group of AnTrac volunteers in Togo are headed home soon (I trained them 2 years ago), it only makes sense that 1994 should be the year. But where? Howell Farm or Tillers? Somebody's private land somewhere? Any and all ideas are welcome; I will try. And think of all the fun we could have!
This is what guys like Nolan, George, Michael and I do, you know. Slowly, so as not to hurt ourselves. Next issue: the view on universal health care from a guy who never has any but still travels to places like Calcutta. Bottom line: nothing short of revolution will do. Our Constitution is totally inadequate for life in the 21st century.
Let's keep up the great idea-sharing. Love-love. Life is a tennis game.
John Elmer